Do not be alarmed! The musket-toting French guards at Dauphin Gate are merely checking for British spies or sympathizers.
And do not be surprised if your response, "I'm from the United States," is met with bewildered expressions. How could the French guards have heard of a nation that does not even exist?
After all, this is 1744, a full 32 years before the American Revolution. While the New England colonists were in the process of gaining their own measure of independence, Britain and France were on the verge of entering into a global war. The future of North America was destined to be one of the victor's spoils, and Fort Louisbourg was the key to France's hopes.
But the end of King Louis XV's New World dream of colonization came in 1760. Following a British siege, Louisbourg's townspeople were exiled, and the fort's walls were demolished.
During the 1960's, the Canadian government began a massive restoration process, rebuilding a significant portion of the fort. It presently encompasses 20 square miles, making Fort Louisbourg Canada's largest national historic park.
But Louisbourg was more than a fort. Hundreds of townspeople also lived within its walls. Today's visitor will experience the sights, sounds and smells of a mid-18th century village.
You may see a fisherman mending his net, hear the snap of a shutter slammed by the wind, smell tallow candles or see obedient soldiers being put through tedious marching and musket drills.
Whether it's young women applying their lace-making skills or the town drunk being hoisted away, wherever they look, visitors are treated to an eyeful of authentically costumed townspeople.
In addition to the continual bustle of activity, many of Louisbourg's more than 50 buildings are historic. Beneath the fleur-de-lis that tops the bell tower, is the citadel, the largest and most imposing building on the site. Besides being the place where the troops reside, it served as the administration center.
The Chateau St. Louis, which housed the governor and his staff, is another majestic stone structure, with some 20 chimneys. Within the 52 rooms is silk upholstery woven in France from 18th century models; it still is preserved by an old, established family of Lyons artisans.
Louisbourg also provides an interesting taste experience. The typical fare of hot dogs, hamburgers and fries found at many tourist spots is replaced by authentic food and accompanying atmosphere.
A L-Epee Royale (Royal Sword) was considered the merchant class restaurant. It was a privately owned home where sea captains, officers and other upper class citizens dined. Just one meal would have cost one month's wages to the working class person.
Today's visitors (old article) pay $9.95 in Canadian dollars (about $11 U.S.) per adult and $5 per child (about $6) for a main dish of chicken, beef or pork, plus vegetable and rice, vegetable soup, roll and cheese, and tart for dessert, except on Sunday.
Everyone else ate at Hotel de la Marine, which cost exactly one day's wage for the common folk. Its fare consists of sausage and cabbage with carrots and bread pudding for $7.95 Canadian per adult and $4 per child. Beans and herbs with bread, molasses and a cookie were $4.95.
For those who choose not to squander all their earnings, there is pea soup and bread for $2.75, and bread and beverage for $3. The bread is served with cheese and brown sugar. Just as in olden days, the only utensil is one long wooden spoon, whose handle is also used to scoop the brown sugar from the bowl onto the bread or into hot buttered rum.
Louisbourg National Historic Park is open to visitors from June 1 to September 30. During May and October, it is not fully open, but there are daily tours. It is located 37 miles south of the town of Sydney on the southeast coast of Cape Breton Island in northeastern Nova Scotia.
It can be reached by car through the Canadian province of New Brunswick or by way of a connecting flight from all major East Coast cities to Halifax. That Nova Scotia capital city is 465 miles from Louisbourg.
